Picnics en Provence: Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt

There is something quietly beautiful about spreading out a tablecloth in a lesser-known corner of Provence and sharing a picnic as the sun softens. Our series, Picnics en Provence, began with a sunset on the cliffs of Cap Canaille - this time, we traded the sea for the hills of the Luberon.

We climbed above the village of Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt, a peaceful gem in the Luberon with ochre-toned facades, narrow-lanes and a rhythm that feels deeply Provençal. We saw very few people the evening we visited the village (in the month of June). The path winds up behind the church and through the remains of ancient stone walls to the ruins of the old château. From there, we followed the ridge, where the view opens wide onto the Luberon valley below - vineyards, rooftops, olives groves, newly blooming lavender fields - and the breeze carries the scent of thyme and stone. It’s the kind of place that invites you to linger, to eat slowly and to watch the light shift to dusk. 

FIELD NOTES:

Here’s what we packed for this picnic. A lot of the items we gathered at a local village market.

• Picholine olives: slightly sharp in taste and green - these are quintessential Provençal olives. They are harvested young, which gives them their signature tang. 
• Sweet red peppers stuffed with fresh goat cheese: these tiny peppers are marinated and sweet - filled with a local chèvre, creamy and light. 
• Marinated artichoke hearts & caviar d’artichaut: simple artichoke hearts are a true treat and the caviar d’artichaut spread for the baguette is a silky purée of artichokes, olive oil and lemon (a Provençal apéro staple).
• A Filetta, Corsican sheep cheese: this unpasteurized cheese is wrapped in a fern frond and is bold and fragrant.
• Skewers of cherry tomatoes, mozzarella and basil: simple and familiar, but this mozzarella was hand-pulled from the Apt market and very special, basil from my garden.
• Fruit: cherries and nectarines - June and July in Provence are stone heaven. The perfect dessert.

GETTING THERE


To reach the picnic spot, park in the village of Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt and follow the path that leads up behind the church toward the château ruins. From there, continue along the ridge - the trail is clear and opens out to several flat areas with wide views. Bring good shoes, and arrive with enough time to settle in before sunset.