Picnics en Provence: La Durance

Picnics en Provence: La Durance

This is the third destination in our Picnics en Provence series, where we set out to uncover beautiful and wild places across the region...hidden spots shared with you that showcase the true majesty of Provence. I've spent ten years in Provence now, avidly adventuring and seeking out the magical essence of this place. Each spot, I've chosen for its quiet charm, sweeping views and the way it holds the evening light just so, perfect for a simple picnic. 

Our first picnic was on Cap Canaille, with its vast sea views; the second, above the charming village in the north of the Luberon, Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt. This time, we followed the Durance River, settling on a wide, stony bank, with the village of Mallemort rising gently behind us - its quiet church tower catching the light. 

The sun stretched long across the stones, the last heat of the day clinging to the flat river stones beneath our feet. We laid our beautiful Saint Tropez Vert Stripes linen along the bank. This stretch of the river is wide, the current swift, but inviting. We swam after we ate, the sun sinking with us into the water. We laughed in its pull, letting the water draw us gently downstream. 

This was a mother-daughter picnic. Slow, simple, no urgency - just the lovely sound of the water against the river stones, the weight of the August air, the feel of the cool river against sun-warmed skin. We sat together, feet tucked beneath us - the linen and bright colors of summer food on the cloth we shared. 

FIELD NOTES

Our menu was inspired by our morning market stop - light, vibrant, fresh and unfussy. Perfect for a hot day and hungry swimmers:

  • Sliced red, yellow and green peppers - crisp and sweet
  • Regional olives - briny
  • Muscat grapes (just starting to show in the markets!)
  • Cantaloupe wedges - on river stone plates
  • Cheese trio: Cantal, Parmesan, local brebis
  • Tartines topped with thick tomato slices and cucumbers, layered over artisnal bread from the boulangerie in our village
  • Mini peppers stuffed with fresh goat cheese - tangy and rich
  • Raw cashews
  • Ripe nectarines and plums - skin warmed from the sun

Photography and writing by Emilie Johnson. She lives in Provence and can be found on instagram at @emilie_joly_johnson

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