As part of a series where we feature the rich world of art in the south of France, I made my way to the Commanderie de Peyrassol. Few places in Provence bring together history, landscape and contemporary art so seamlessly. Founded in the 13th century by the Knights Templar and later entrusted to the Knights Hospitaller, centuries have unfolded among its vineyards and ancient oak trees. Since 2001, under the vision of Philippe Austruy, it has also become home to one of France’s most remarkable collections of contemporary sculpture, with more than seventy works thoughtfully placed throughout the property.
What makes Peyrassol so compelling is the way the collection is experienced. There are no prescribed routes or gallery walls. Sculptures crop up gradually as you wander the estate, walking freely. They emerge from the vines, rest in the surrounding landscape, or sit quietly beneath centuries-old trees. During my visit, I encountered works by Sislej Xhafa, Dan Graham, Richard Long, Daniel Buren, Bernar Venet, Jaume Plensa, Ugo Rondinone and others, each embedded in and responding to the landscape in a different way. Together they invite you to experience Provence through an entirely different lens.
A Closer Look at the Art:
Let's examine just a few of the pieces more closely, in their beautiful context.
Colonne Coloniale | Pascale Marthine Tayou
Pascale Marthine Tayou often explores ideas of identity, migration and cultural exchange. Colonne Coloniale references the classical column, a symbol of dominance and permanence, but he transforms it through color and unexpected materials. The work asks questions about history - whose story is represented and suggests that culture is never fixed but constantly shaped by movement and encounter.
Three Volumes | Ulrich Rückriem
Carved from enormous blocks of stone, Three Volumes appears almost austere. German sculptor Ulrich Rückriem is less interested in shaping stone than revealing it. The precise cuts expose the material’s weight, texture and geological history, reminding us the original source is ancient and raw. The piece is so embedded in its natural context, one could also miss it. But once the blocks, almost like benches, catch your eye - their presence carries substantive weight.
226.5° Arc x 5 | Bernar Venet
This is a technical piece. Bernar Venet has spent decades exploring mathematics through sculpture. His steel arcs are based on geometric angles, rendering industrial steel somehow light and elegant. He traces a curve against the Provençal sky.
Cylindre incrusté aux couleurs | Daniel Buren
Daniel Buren is instantly recognizable for his use of color and vertical stripes, a visual language he has explored for more than fifty years. Yet his work is never simply about color or pattern. Instead, he uses these repeated forms to draw attention to the place itself. As sunlight shifts across the cylinder throughout the day, the colors and shadows continually change, making the surrounding landscape an active participant in the work.
Tel Aviv II | Jaume Plensa
2 Angles 17,5 et 15,5 | Bernar Venet
Triangular Pavilion with Circular Cutout Variation H | Dan Graham
Flower Moon | Ugo Rondinone
Whether you come for the art, the wine or the delicious food served at the domaine's restaurants, this is a place that rewards those who know how to slow down. The sculptures and art invite you to see Provence differently, the vineyards remind you this is a living estate and nature interacts equally with both. Enjoy a wine tasting (they are renowned for their rosé wine) before you leave the Commanderie de Peyrassol.
