Saint Tropez in the Delightful Off Season
When the glitterati have gone, Saint Tropez reveals its more authentic side. The cobbled lanes of the old town, La Ponche, whisper stories of fishermen and artists like Henri Matisse, who were charmed by its light and laid-back lifestyle. Walking these streets without the buzz of the high season allows you to appreciate the timeless architecture, beautiful color palette and the gentle splash of waves against the quieter port.
The off-season doesn’t mean the cultural calendar dries up. Saint Tropez hosts events that are cherished by locals, such as les Voiles de Saint Tropez in October, the Bravade de Saint Tropez in November - a traditional festival with parades, music, and a celebration of Saint Tropez’s patron saint. Participating in these festivities offers a deeper understanding and appreciation of the town’s community and traditions.
The off-season is the best time to enjoy Provençal cuisine without the wait. The local restaurants, now free from the summer frenzy, offer a more relaxed dining experience. It’s the perfect time to indulge in a bouillabaisse, a hearty fish stew that tastes like the sea, or to sample the Tarte Tropezienne, a dessert born here. With fewer tourists around, chefs have more time to share stories of their culinary heritage, turning a simple meal into an immersive cultural experience.
In the oldest bit of Saint Tropez, La Ponche, sits this classic restaurant, Le Mazagran, serving very typical Provençal fare. Be sure to order the calamari and anchoïade.
Visit the Musée de l’Annonciade, where you can admire works by Signac and Braque without elbowing through crowds. Off-season hours might be reduced, but the tranquil galleries allow for a personal connection with the art. Historical sites like the Citadel, with its maritime museum, offer panoramic views of the town and sea—views you might just have to yourself during the quieter months.
The surrounding areas of Saint Tropez bloom with natural beauty in the off-season. Hiking trails in the Massif des Maures offer solitude and the scent of pine mixed with sea salt. The beaches, now uncrowded, are perfect for meditative walks or finding a quiet spot to read a book. The cooler weather is ideal for active pursuits, from cycling the coastal paths to exploring the vineyards that dot the landscape.
On or off-season, one of my favorite spots in Saint Tropez is a bit out of town, along a wild beach called Plage des Salins. The seafood here is as fresh as it gets and the place is authentically Saint Tropez, in the very best way. They rent beach loungers if you want to stay all day...chances are, you will.
Traveling to Saint Tropez during the off-season reveals a destination marked not only by its past glories but also by its present charms. Without the veil of summer’s fervor, you encounter a locale that’s more welcoming and distinctly serene. This Saint Tropez—quieter, less adorned, yet equally resplendent—awaits the traveler who seeks not just a place to see, but a place to feel.
Photography and writing by Emilie Johnson. She lives in Provence and can be found on instagram at @emilie_joly_johnson