The Daily Fish Market on the Vieux Port of Marseille
The Vieux Port of Marseille is not just the heart of the city, it’s a living testament to centuries of maritime culture and tradition. One of the most enduring and beloved customs in this vibrant port city is the daily marché aux poissons (fish market), which draws locals and tourists alike.
Marseille, founded by Greek settlers over 2,600 years ago, has always been a city closely tied to the sea. The Vieux Port, one of the oldest parts of the city, has served as a bustling hub of trade and fishing since ancient times. The fish market, which takes place every morning, has been a cornerstone of this maritime activity for generations. Fishermen have been selling their fresh catch directly to the public here for centuries, a tradition that continues unabated today.
This market has survived through wars, economic changes, and the modernization of the city. It is a symbol of the resilience of local traditions in the face of an ever-changing world. The market not only serves as a place of commerce but also as a gathering point where the spirit of the community is as fresh as the seafood on display.
Every morning, as the sun rises over the Mediterranean, the fish market comes alive with activity. The fishermen, who have been out at sea during the early hours, return to the port with their catch. They set up stalls right at the water’s edge, displaying their fish on beds of ice. The scene is a feast for the senses: the salty sea air, the calls of the vendors, the glistening fish, and the vibrant colors of the boats in the background.
The market opens early, around 8 AM, and by mid-morning, the quay is filled with locals selecting their fish for the day’s meals. It’s a place where chefs from nearby restaurants rub shoulders with home cooks, all seeking the freshest seafood available.
The variety of seafood at the marché aux poissons is astounding. Depending on the season and the day’s catch, you can find:
• Bouillabaisse fish: Essential for the famous Marseillaise dish, you’ll find rockfish, red mullet, gurnard, and conger eel among others.
• Sardines: A staple in Marseille, often grilled fresh on the barbecue.
• Rouget (Red Mullet): A small, flavorful fish prized by local chefs.
• Daurade (Sea Bream): Available in both wild and farmed varieties, a versatile fish that is often grilled.
• Loup de Mer (Sea Bass): A favorite for its delicate flavor.
• Saint-Pierre (John Dory): Known for its unique appearance and tender flesh.
• Calamari and Octopus: For those looking to prepare classic Mediterranean dishes like calamars farcis or poulpe en salade.
• Mussels, Oysters, and Sea Urchins: Fresh shellfish, perfect for a simple meal with a squeeze of lemon.
While exploring the stalls of the fish market, visitors may come across a unique and beautiful object known as l’oeil de Sainte Lucie (Saint Lucy’s Eye). This small, spiral-shaped piece is actually the operculum, or protective cover, of a marine snail called the Turbo rugosa.
In Marseille, and across the Mediterranean, l’oeil de Sainte Lucie is considered a good luck charm. It is named after Saint Lucy, the patron saint of the blind and those with eye troubles, and it is believed to protect against the evil eye and bring good fortune. Locals often keep one in their wallet, hang it in their home, or wear it as a piece of jewelry.
These small, white and orange shells are highly sought after not only for their beauty but also for their symbolic significance. They serve as a reminder of the sea’s bounty, not just in terms of food but also in the rich cultural and spiritual heritage that the Mediterranean has offered for centuries.
The marché aux poissons is more than just a place to buy fish; it’s a living tradition that connects the people of Marseille to their history and to the sea. It’s a daily reminder of the city’s roots, of the generations of fishermen who have made their living from the waters of the Mediterranean, and of the communal spirit that defines life in this ancient port.
